Adrián Quetglas, Palma

I probably first tasted food prepared by the chef Adrián Quetglas when he worked for the renowned British chef Marc Fosh at the former Reads Hotel. Now there’s a blast from the past. Before that, the Buenos Aires-born chef Adrián – whose father is a Mallorcan – had gained culinary experience in Paris and in London, where he worked at Marco Pierre White’s Quo Vadis restaurant.

Adrián and Marc went to Moscow in 2005 for some culinary consultancy work. When Marc returned, Adrián stayed for another ten years, directing the cuisine of some of the city’s top restaurants and even opening one of his own.

In 2015, Adrián brought his considerable culinary experience home to Mallorca and opened his eponymous restaurant on the tree-lined Passeig de Mallorca. The restaurant is recommended in Spain’s Guía Repsol and the Michelin Guide … and by me.

Adrián Quetglas restaurant offers creative cuisine and exceptional value in its set lunch and dinner menus.

We went for the lunchtime five-plate menu at 55€, which can be shortened to three plates for 38€, but we wanted the whole menu. A wine pairing is available, but we had only a glass of cava and a glass of Mallorcan wine each, recommended by the helpful sommelier.

Adrián Quetglas restaurant has a smart, contemporary dining room and tables on the covered front terrace. We ate indoors at a table by the window, where a stool was provided for my handbag.

Lunch had an excellent start with a shared, warm sourdough loaf served alongside ‘Tap de Corti’ whipped butter. Our first dish was a silky, cold almond soup with white prawns, chopped pickled peach, and an unusual (and delicious) garum ice cream.

The next three savoury dishes were hot and served on heated tableware (always a bonus for me). The almadroc rice and beetroot dish – which has its roots in medieval Catalan food – was not only beautifully presented but also contained melt-in-the-mouth pieces of Mallorcan black pork. The fish plate was croaker served with saffron-infused Israeli couscous (ptitim) and seaweed in red shrimp jus, and was followed by poularde with creamy sweetcorn, Tap de Corti emulsion, and a carob demi-glace.

The sweet end to our lunch combined white chocolate with passion fruit, nuts, and notable Far Eastern spices.

The presentation and flavours of each dish were exquisite, and I liked that this menu introduced me to some new food experiences: ice cream made from garum, almadroc rice, and Israeli couscous. I also appreciated that the servers asked whether we wanted to take a short break between the later courses.

The impressive wine list – 43 pages of it – offers a superb selection for connoisseurs. Spain (including Mallorca), France, Italy, New Zealand, Germany, Austria, and even Greece are represented.

If you’re looking for an haute cuisine experience in Palma that’s more democratically priced than some, head for Adrián Quetglas. 

Adrián Quetglas is open for most of the winter, closing only from mid-February to mid-March.

Prices correct at time of writing.

Photos: Jan Edwards