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ES FUM, Costa d’en Blanes

For an indulgent gastronomic treat or a special occasion dinner, the Michelin-starred Es Fum in Costa d’en Blanes ticks all the boxes.

Within the 5-star St Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort, Es Fum’s interior recently had a superb contemporary makeover, with well-spaced tables, comfortable seating, and neutral colours with some soft-pink accents in the upholstery. A huge red painting by the renowned Mallorcan artist and sculptor, Joan Bennàssar, dominates the Es Fum entrance – and has been the backdrop for many Instagram photos.


Some of Bennàssar’s signature-style sculptures stand proud along Es Fum’s terrace – a blissful place to dine on a balmy summer night. From there, you have long views across the resort’s extensive grounds towards the Mediterranean.


For culinary artistry, choose any of the three tasting menus: Origin, Recorrido, or Vegetal. An à la carte menu is also available, but I was there to try the 12-step Origin (165 €). An optional wine pairing (120€) is available if, unlike me, you’re not driving home afterward. Knowledgeable sommelier Julianna Gonzalez also has previous Michelin-star restaurant experience and, in 2020, was named Best Sommelier of the Balearic Islands at the Sommeliers’ Spanish Championship, Tierra de Sabor.


Executive chef Miguel Navarro (from La Gomera in the Canaries) has been at Es Fum since 2017 and came to Mallorca (the birthplace of his grandmother) with a wealth of experience in the kitchens of restaurants with three Michelin stars in Italy, Germany, Tenerife, San Sebastian, Bilbao, Girona, and Barcelona. His talents and the influence of Martin Berasategui (for whom he worked for a total of nine years) are evident in his exquisite cuisine.


The dishes on the menu include nods to Navarro’s heritage and career and one, described as MB butter, pays homage to Chef Berasategui, whose restaurants hold a total of 12 stars – more than any other chef in Spain.


Es Fum’s service was faultless and overseen by maître d’ Fabio Massacci. The high ratio of servers to diners means a luxurious level of service – but without any stuffiness. Every artistically presented dish was explained as it arrived at the table.


Some prestigious talent from the gastronomic world also dined the night I was there. One of America’s best-known chefs, Grant Achatz of Chicago’s 3-Michelin-star restaurant, Alinea, and the Padrón chef brothers from the 2-Michelin-star El Rincón de Juan Carlos in Tenerife had chosen to eat at Es Fum. If it’s good enough for them . . .



Photos: Jan Edwards

Prices correct at time of writing.


Es Fum

St Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort
Carretera Palma - Andratx, 19

07181 Costa d'en Blanes

971 629 629


Opening times:
Seasonal (April - October) for dinner only, Wednesday to Sunday, 19:30 - 22:30 h