Grano A Grano, S’Illot

You’ll find paella on the menu in many resort eateries in Mallorca, although the quality of this traditional Valencian dish varies and sometimes disappoints. But Grano a Grano in S’Illot is worth a visit because its range of rice dishes goes beyond the ubiquitous paella. Grano a Grano is an ‘arrocería’ – a restaurant specialising in a variety of rice dishes.

Grano a Grano has a great position above and at one end of S’Illot’s sandy beach, with tables on the terrace and an attractive dining room. When I last met the restaurant owner and chef, David Serrano, he was the maître d’ at Andreu Genestra restaurant in Capdepera, before it relocated to Llucmajor. Now, David is exercising his passion for cooking in his own restaurant, closer to his home in neighbouring Sa Coma.

We chose starters from the menu’s Classics section: Andalusian-style calamari (full portion 14€) and chicken croquetas (full portion 14€). Our charming server was another familiar face: Amal had also worked at Andreu Genestra and Can Simoneta. She recommended that half portions of the starters would be enough – good advice. The home-made croquetas were packed with pieces of chicken and were some of the best that I’ve eaten for a long time.

Cold dishes include a tuna trampó salad, ceviche, shrimp carpaccio, and a Mediterranean poke bowl. (16€-18€).

There are seven meat or fish dishes on the menu, but Grano a Grano is a specialist rice restaurant, so we chose from the rice and fideuàs section, which includes three types of paella. My companion chose mixed paella (22€), and I ordered seafood fideuà – a noodle dish (20€). Yes, unusually, you can have an individual portion of paella here. David later showed me his open kitchen with its racks of paella pans, where he works alone, telling me that each rice dish has its own stock.

We thoroughly enjoyed our chosen dishes but were left without room for a dessert this time. The list includes five flavours of cheesecake, locally made ice creams, crema Catalana, and brownie with vanilla ice cream. Prices range from 5,50€ to 7€.

The menu has two popular, non-rice dishes for kids (14€ each).

We drank wine by the glass (Quélias rosado and a verdejo from Bodegas Pedro Escudero).

Rice dishes take a while to cook so I recommend sharing a starter or beginning with a glass of one of the five vermouths offered and one or two of the suggested small accompaniments, such as gildas, Cantabrian anchovies, or Mahon cheese from Son Mercer de Baix farm, with olive oil.

I have a habit of examining the base of interesting-looking tableware – empty of food, of course – to see where it was made.  At Grano a Grano, I discovered the name David is inscribed on the underside of several bowls and dishes; yes, David Serrano – like the chef Santi Taura in Palma – is also a ceramics artist.

Grano a Grano is a seasonal restaurant and is expected to stay open until the end of October, so make the most of the early autumn’s good weather to enjoy a tasty rice dish overlooking the beach at S’Illot.

Photos: Jan Edwards

Prices correct at time of writing.